George Papas asked:
Well hidden in the mountains of Epirus, north of Ioannina lies one of the most famous winter destination in Greece: Zagorohoria, Forty-six century-old villages steeped In nature create a unique haven The locals have preserved their land, with respect to the architectural identity of their villages and the beauty of the surrounding nature Zagori means “the place behind the mountains”. The region is indeed surrounded by Mitsikeli Mountain and the Tymfi mountain range. There are three distinct parts: The eastern, western and central Zagori, all criss-crossed by streams, rivers, gorges and dotted by small lakes. And the view of the mountains all around is spectacular
The Villages
Zagon is famous for its architectural variety. The large number of villages scattered around the mountaintops are full of surprises. Each one has a central plaza around which village life revolves. Plane trees, Communal fountains, community buildings and cafes exist on and around all of them Visit Papingo, Kipi, Monodendri, Aristi and Vovousa, some of the best known villages, and you’ll see what I mean There are several routes around the region. The locals can show you the most exciting ones You really should visit as many villages as you possibly can Whether you’re a hiker, a mountaineer, an extreme sports nut or a 4 x 4 enthusiast, there’s really a lot to see.
Architecture : Most buildings in Zagori are built by stone and wood. Mansions, guest houses, schools churches and water mills blend into the natural surrounding perfectly. The villages seem like an integral part of the landscape But they are not bland at all: you’ll notice extravagant architectural details like the colourful doors, the intricate windows, and other elements. Several older buildings have been impressively renovated recently.
What to see Voidomatis River: Crystal waters that come from springs at the Vikos gorge, and meet with Aoos River further downstream. Walk along the river’s banks under the gigantic plane trees, try its potable water, and marvel at the wonderful stone-built bridges along its path.
Panagia Spiliotissa: On the road to Papingo you’ll come up to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliotissa. The route is breathtaking, but the monastery itself, perched on a steep rock, is spectacular. The building features numerous nearly vertical levels connected with steep stone staircases. The bell tower looks as if it were part of the rock cliff face.
Kolybithres: Amazing natural pools created by the water’s flow through the rocks. Located on the road between Mikro and Megalo Papingo. Don’t dive in - the water is extremely cold.
Drakolimni: According to the legend, a dragon lives there, along with an army of tiny amphibians, the Tritons. It’s a four-hour walk from Papingo, but it’s worth it. The landscape is breathtak¬ing.
Agia Paraskevi Monastery: Built on the 15th century on the edge of Vikos gorge, it retains the medieval atmosphere of that era. Every room is built along a path that leads you to several caves on the cliff-face.
Kalogeriko: One of the most famous bridges in the area, outside Kipi. Its three dimensional curvature creates the illusion of a pulsation. A monk called Samuel built it some time during the early 19th century, replacing the wooden bridge that existed on that spot. Plakidas brothers repaired it in 1865, giving it the shape it still retains today,
Skala Vradetou: Looks like a stairway to heaven, as it is located in the highest place of Zagori at an altitude of 1,340 meters. It once was the only connection of the village with the same name with the outside world. An amazing place,
The Vikos Gorge: An amazing 20 km long ravine deep in Zagon, among the Koukourtzos, Kousta, Stouros and Tymphi mountains, Villages like Kapesovo, Dilofo and Tsepelovo are located there, along with numerous stone-built bridges, stairways, water mills and monasteries. It’s a beautiful, verdant place. filled with amazing secrets. Don’t miss the Vlsikos Monastery, north of Kaloutas, or the Kastantonas village, that only has 10 inhabitants, and is the only one connected to the outside world by nothing more than a dirt road.
Tradition: The numerous elements of folk art everywhere will astound you. In Sarakatsaniki Stani you’ll feel like you re in some kind of wonderland. This original outdoors museum, oper¬ating since 1995, is a collection of hovels in the woods with exhibits from the locals’ way of life. The library of Paschalios School in Kapesovo features a copy of the Rigas Feraios Chart, as well as other rare historic documents.
The Lazarides Museum in Koukouli features samples from the rich flora and fauna of the area. The Museum of Folk Art in Kipi features over 40,000 exhibits from the collection of Agapios Tolis. Traditional costumes household items, ceramics and copper utensils are presented in a beautiful place Another place worth visiting is the Rizari Exhibition Center in Monodendri. It frequently hosts exhibitions and events.
Epirus Flavors: At Ano Pedina, make a stop at Porfyros for some local flavors. Try the lamb at Soudena, pies and game at Spiti tou Oresti.
In Aristi, enjoy a cup of coffee at Chani - there’s also game and traditional meals if you’re hungry. Don’t leave the village before trying the pie of Alexandra.
At Asprangeli try the restaurant of Dovras Hotel. Try the pies at Tsoumani -especially platsaria-, the stuffed lamb and the plum jam.
At Vitsa you get to enjoy more local delicacies in Beloi. You’ll find a great variety of meat and pies.
On the road to Monodendri you’ll find Kanella ke Garyfallo, where you’ll get to try amazing mushroom recipes made by mushrooms cultivated by the owners.
At Vovousa try cooked liver at Taverna tou Aggelou, overlooking the river.
At Dilofos make a stop at Lithos, a bar-restaurant where you can also sit and relax with a book or a newspaper. There are also board games for groups of friends. Try the cream cheese, the pies and the mirmigato for dessert. At Sopotseli, that bears the former name of the village, which means “place of many waters”, you can try the warm frumenty and pie.
Sterna at Kapesovo serves sweets and more traditional products produced right there by Thucydldes Papageorgiou’s family, including liqueur, frumenty, dried mushrooms but also handicraft items, like jewellery and shepherd’s crooks.
At Elati, try traditional meals by Mr Sakis at Risa. We suggest the fried cheese with eggplants and head cheese, or the flower-pot pork with plums and quinces.
At Kato Pedina, look for Mesochori cafe. Mr Panos and Mrs Vangelio will serve you coffee, great food and wonderful 1occal sweets.
Kipi’s most popular spot is Michalis’ restaurant, with tidbits you can enjoy with some wine or tsipouro.
Koukouli has a lovely little square with a coffee shop called Mikro Kafenio, that also serves homemade herb pie and cream cheese.
In Laista you can enjoy legumes and wild greens at Robolo.
Megalo Papingo is definitely a place you’ll visit. Kalliopi is famous for her papricasse, a spice red meat with plums. In Spyros and Kostas Tsoumanis’ tavern you get to try warm soups. In loannidis try the green pie and the pumpkin pie. Bimtsa serves aromatic beverages and wonderful music at the juke box.
In Mikro Papingo, look for Dia, a favourite haunt of climbers and hikers. Its meat soup and the metsovone grilled cheese are famous. In Monodendri, try the pie and the bean soup in Kikitsa Tavern. If you’re looking for an urban-style nightlife, you better head to loannina.
Donald
Well hidden in the mountains of Epirus, north of Ioannina lies one of the most famous winter destination in Greece: Zagorohoria, Forty-six century-old villages steeped In nature create a unique haven The locals have preserved their land, with respect to the architectural identity of their villages and the beauty of the surrounding nature Zagori means “the place behind the mountains”. The region is indeed surrounded by Mitsikeli Mountain and the Tymfi mountain range. There are three distinct parts: The eastern, western and central Zagori, all criss-crossed by streams, rivers, gorges and dotted by small lakes. And the view of the mountains all around is spectacular
The Villages
Zagon is famous for its architectural variety. The large number of villages scattered around the mountaintops are full of surprises. Each one has a central plaza around which village life revolves. Plane trees, Communal fountains, community buildings and cafes exist on and around all of them Visit Papingo, Kipi, Monodendri, Aristi and Vovousa, some of the best known villages, and you’ll see what I mean There are several routes around the region. The locals can show you the most exciting ones You really should visit as many villages as you possibly can Whether you’re a hiker, a mountaineer, an extreme sports nut or a 4 x 4 enthusiast, there’s really a lot to see.
Architecture : Most buildings in Zagori are built by stone and wood. Mansions, guest houses, schools churches and water mills blend into the natural surrounding perfectly. The villages seem like an integral part of the landscape But they are not bland at all: you’ll notice extravagant architectural details like the colourful doors, the intricate windows, and other elements. Several older buildings have been impressively renovated recently.
What to see Voidomatis River: Crystal waters that come from springs at the Vikos gorge, and meet with Aoos River further downstream. Walk along the river’s banks under the gigantic plane trees, try its potable water, and marvel at the wonderful stone-built bridges along its path.
Panagia Spiliotissa: On the road to Papingo you’ll come up to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliotissa. The route is breathtaking, but the monastery itself, perched on a steep rock, is spectacular. The building features numerous nearly vertical levels connected with steep stone staircases. The bell tower looks as if it were part of the rock cliff face.
Kolybithres: Amazing natural pools created by the water’s flow through the rocks. Located on the road between Mikro and Megalo Papingo. Don’t dive in - the water is extremely cold.
Drakolimni: According to the legend, a dragon lives there, along with an army of tiny amphibians, the Tritons. It’s a four-hour walk from Papingo, but it’s worth it. The landscape is breathtak¬ing.
Agia Paraskevi Monastery: Built on the 15th century on the edge of Vikos gorge, it retains the medieval atmosphere of that era. Every room is built along a path that leads you to several caves on the cliff-face.
Kalogeriko: One of the most famous bridges in the area, outside Kipi. Its three dimensional curvature creates the illusion of a pulsation. A monk called Samuel built it some time during the early 19th century, replacing the wooden bridge that existed on that spot. Plakidas brothers repaired it in 1865, giving it the shape it still retains today,
Skala Vradetou: Looks like a stairway to heaven, as it is located in the highest place of Zagori at an altitude of 1,340 meters. It once was the only connection of the village with the same name with the outside world. An amazing place,
The Vikos Gorge: An amazing 20 km long ravine deep in Zagon, among the Koukourtzos, Kousta, Stouros and Tymphi mountains, Villages like Kapesovo, Dilofo and Tsepelovo are located there, along with numerous stone-built bridges, stairways, water mills and monasteries. It’s a beautiful, verdant place. filled with amazing secrets. Don’t miss the Vlsikos Monastery, north of Kaloutas, or the Kastantonas village, that only has 10 inhabitants, and is the only one connected to the outside world by nothing more than a dirt road.
Tradition: The numerous elements of folk art everywhere will astound you. In Sarakatsaniki Stani you’ll feel like you re in some kind of wonderland. This original outdoors museum, oper¬ating since 1995, is a collection of hovels in the woods with exhibits from the locals’ way of life. The library of Paschalios School in Kapesovo features a copy of the Rigas Feraios Chart, as well as other rare historic documents.
The Lazarides Museum in Koukouli features samples from the rich flora and fauna of the area. The Museum of Folk Art in Kipi features over 40,000 exhibits from the collection of Agapios Tolis. Traditional costumes household items, ceramics and copper utensils are presented in a beautiful place Another place worth visiting is the Rizari Exhibition Center in Monodendri. It frequently hosts exhibitions and events.
Epirus Flavors: At Ano Pedina, make a stop at Porfyros for some local flavors. Try the lamb at Soudena, pies and game at Spiti tou Oresti.
In Aristi, enjoy a cup of coffee at Chani - there’s also game and traditional meals if you’re hungry. Don’t leave the village before trying the pie of Alexandra.
At Asprangeli try the restaurant of Dovras Hotel. Try the pies at Tsoumani -especially platsaria-, the stuffed lamb and the plum jam.
At Vitsa you get to enjoy more local delicacies in Beloi. You’ll find a great variety of meat and pies.
On the road to Monodendri you’ll find Kanella ke Garyfallo, where you’ll get to try amazing mushroom recipes made by mushrooms cultivated by the owners.
At Vovousa try cooked liver at Taverna tou Aggelou, overlooking the river.
At Dilofos make a stop at Lithos, a bar-restaurant where you can also sit and relax with a book or a newspaper. There are also board games for groups of friends. Try the cream cheese, the pies and the mirmigato for dessert. At Sopotseli, that bears the former name of the village, which means “place of many waters”, you can try the warm frumenty and pie.
Sterna at Kapesovo serves sweets and more traditional products produced right there by Thucydldes Papageorgiou’s family, including liqueur, frumenty, dried mushrooms but also handicraft items, like jewellery and shepherd’s crooks.
At Elati, try traditional meals by Mr Sakis at Risa. We suggest the fried cheese with eggplants and head cheese, or the flower-pot pork with plums and quinces.
At Kato Pedina, look for Mesochori cafe. Mr Panos and Mrs Vangelio will serve you coffee, great food and wonderful 1occal sweets.
Kipi’s most popular spot is Michalis’ restaurant, with tidbits you can enjoy with some wine or tsipouro.
Koukouli has a lovely little square with a coffee shop called Mikro Kafenio, that also serves homemade herb pie and cream cheese.
In Laista you can enjoy legumes and wild greens at Robolo.
Megalo Papingo is definitely a place you’ll visit. Kalliopi is famous for her papricasse, a spice red meat with plums. In Spyros and Kostas Tsoumanis’ tavern you get to try warm soups. In loannidis try the green pie and the pumpkin pie. Bimtsa serves aromatic beverages and wonderful music at the juke box.
In Mikro Papingo, look for Dia, a favourite haunt of climbers and hikers. Its meat soup and the metsovone grilled cheese are famous. In Monodendri, try the pie and the bean soup in Kikitsa Tavern. If you’re looking for an urban-style nightlife, you better head to loannina.
Donald
